Moroccan embroidery: Rbati, Fassi and Slaoui

Before you buy or order a piece

• What the piece is and how you'll use it
• A photo of the whole piece and a close-up
• The fabric, thread and design
• Who made it, the price and when it will be ready

Step by step

1. 1

   Decide on the piece and the occasion

   Clothing, household linen, family celebrations

   You'll find embroidery on the Eid djellaba, the wedding caftan, cushions and linen, and on pieces that stay in a family for generations. Before you look, be clear about what you want: clothing, linen or a piece to give? And how will it be used? That helps the maker suggest the right technique.

2. 2

   A city name starts the conversation, it doesn't settle it

   When you hear Rbati, Slaoui or Fassi

   Rbati, Slaoui and Fassi embroidery each have their own way of working, but a name alone can't judge a piece. Ask the maker where she learned, which technique she used and when the piece was made.

3. 3

   Rbati and Slaoui: older and newer

   In Rabat and Salé

   In Rabat and Salé, you will find older embroidery linked to counted thread and inherited designs, alongside newer forms that use more colours, compositions and settings. Don't judge a piece from a small photo; ask for a full view and a close-up.

4. 4

   Fassi: counted thread and long patience

   In Fès

   Tarz fassi and tarz el-ghorza use counted thread with horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches. That describes a technique, not a rule for every piece made in Fès. Ask the maker whether her work follows that method.

5. 5

   Talk to the maker before you agree

   With the maker or cooperative

   Let the maker tell you what she did by hand, what she takes from older work and what she adds herself. Look at the whole piece and up close, and ask about the fabric, thread, timing and price. Then you know what you're buying, and you give the work its due.

Questions people ask